
-On to the important stuff, the Chinese New Year. At the wee hour of 8:00 on chuxi (New Year’s Eve) we packed into a bus and headed to Taiyuan, a big city near to Pingyao, where we were to spend the next few nights. They took us to Taiyuan for the New Year just to make sure we got the real experience of the holiday. Boy, was I glad they did.
-The scenery on the way up was very beautiful, yet strikingly bizarre. I could not really compare it with any place in the states because it was such a mix of things I hadn’t seen together. We traveled through mountains with 10-ft wide terraces. Cities contained regular buildings mixed in with structures built in to the mountains, similar to the cliff dwellings in the Southwest US.
-Before arriving in Taiyuan, we stopped at a Buddhist temple. Very beautiful and peaceful, as well as HUGE. We walked about a quarter of a mile in what I thought was the temple, when it turned out we were just in the “front yard.” There were many buildings, ponds, and streams, the place was surrounded by mountains, and it was filled with tall trees. One giant tree was growing at about a 30 degree angle, which it had apparently been doing since the temple was built, over 1000 years ago. There were many buildings with statues of Buddha surrounded by incense, where people would come to pray and leave an offering. Unfortunately Buddha is not supposed to be photographed, so I couldn’t get any pictures of the elaborate statues.
-At one of the few rest areas, I got a taste of what New Year was going to be like. There were all these strange exploding sounds coming from all around us. Were we in a bombing range? No, those were firecrackers, going off literally every second. When we arrived in Taiyuan, it was exactly the same, only getting more intense as the day went on. By the time the sun went down, I felt like we were in a war zone. We had a little fun making fools of ourselves running and ducking behind corners to give ourselves the full effect. Then! Starting around 11:30, fireworks really started going off. It was like the climax of the fireworks on the 4th of July, but it lasted for over an hour, all around us. It seemed as though every point in the city had someone shooting them off. Simply amazing. I made sure to take a 10-minute long video of it while leaning out our hotel window, just to prove to people how ridiculous it was.
-On the road again, we stopped at some fancy mansion or something to visit. I remember so little about the attraction because of what happened before I got to it. When I first got off the bus, I had to immediately find a bathroom. Dr. Li pointed one out to me but said it’s “probably not very good.” Considering the state of most bathrooms in China, I wasn’t afraid. It was probably just a bit dirty, like most of them, right? No. The women’s room was a small shack, while the men’s “room” was a curtain with a bucket behind it. HA! I couldn’t help but laugh. What really got me was that as I left, two people ran out saying “Wu mao! Wu mao!” They were actually trying to charge me for that. My first reaction was to just crack up. Somehow I didn’t feel like that restroom cost them very much money in upkeep.
-We then went to find some lunch. Eerily, there was a row of restaurants that all looked exactly the same, inside and out. And none of them could serve more than one table of us because they said “it would take too long.” A group of us went into one place, mainly because a woman ran outside with her menu, very intent on getting us to eat there. It didn’t seem like the best idea to eat at the one place that’s desperate for customers, but they all seemed the same anyways. As we were sitting down, the woman ran outside again and chased after another group from our program and convinced them to come in. They seemed very friendly when taking our order, and they brought out the first dish someone had ordered. It wasn’t bad. But we didn’t get another dish for about 45 minutes. A group of Chinese people came in and sat down about 20 minutes after we had gotten there. We didn’t think much of it when they got one or two dishes before us, but soon it became apparent that they were getting their entire meal before us. We had a deadline to make in order to get into the mansion place with the group, so this was ridiculous. Yay for the “American” service. We couldn’t even do much other than think about leaving because we had no idea how to say what we needed in Chinese. Fortunately, one of our program directors came in, and after hearing what was going on, gave the owners what was coming to them. Our food then came out immediately, but I feel like they just threw together whatever they could as soon as possible. It was by far the worst food I’d had in China. Frustrated, we threw money on the table and left. In the states I wouldn’t have even considered putting money down, but I’m not sure I could have done that to people in China who are obviously so poor.
-Our next stop was Pingyao, a small, very historic town. The weather was much colder, though not as bad as Harbin. However, it was made 10 times worse because for some reason our hotel did not have HEAT! Well, that’s not fair to say. There was a guy who appeared to be working hard shoveling coal into an oven, which apparently was supposed to heat the rooms. All I know is that I could touch my radiator without it feeling hot at all, and I could see my breath in my room. We went outside to huddle around a brick oven when we wanted to warm up. I should be fair and say that not everyone was stuck without heat. The town was so small that no hotel could fit our entire group, so they split us up by gender into two hotels. The boys got what I like to call “the shaft.” We didn’t have heat, the girls did. We slept on wooden platforms with a blanket folded over it as a “mattress,” the girls had normal twin beds. Our bathroom consisted of a toilet that didn’t flush, a “shower” that was simply a faucet sticking out of one of the walls (you were expected to just stand in the middle of the floor to shower), and an overbearing stench of feces. Take that back, the entire room smelled of it. The girls had a standup-shower with jets, JETS! They also got full-sized towels, while we were given a nice, 1ft by 2ft loincloth to use when we showered. I was at least happy to see that what I thought was a tiny towel was actually TWO really thin, tiny towels. Great! I can dry off BOTH my hands now! Also we only “got hot water” between the hours of 7-11pm (I actually never found any hot water during those hours even), while the girls had hot water the entire day. But! I’m not complaining. I actually thought the hotel was very pretty, especially the little courtyard area outside. I just find it funny to list the infinite number of ways in which the girls had it better than us. This is China! Whatever happened the Confucianist chauvinism? The town was very charming, with narrow stone streets that felt like a labyrinth and reminded me of my time in Antigua, Guatemala. The streets were filled with merchants selling statuettes, swords, furs, and whatever else you wanted. I bought a very ancient-looking xylophone-type instrument and a GORGEOUS vertical landscape painting in watercolor.
-You could, however, tell how much of a tourist town Pingyao was, and once again, everyone did their best to rip off the foreigners. I can’t say I blame them, considering how much wealthier I’m sure we are than any of the merchants, but it did get pretty annoying. We learned the best call for restaurants was to find the ones where a). There was no English writing on the outside and b). The inside was filled with Chinese customers. We managed to find the best food I’ve had in China so far using that strategy.